AVOIDING CONTRACTOR SCAMS

AVOIDING CONTRACTOR SCAMS

Property owners can become the victims of unlicensed, uninsured, inexperienced contractors and outright scammers who come to prey on uninformed people. Poor quality contractors and scammers can cause permanent damage, devalue your property, steal your money and put you at personal, legal and financial risk... not to mention all the headaches!

Many scams begin with a knock at your door, or an unsolicited call on the phone, claiming to be a contractor. Unfortunately, many scam companies imitate legitimate contractors, so protect yourself by checking your contractor out, before agreeing to an inspection.

Make sure any contractor you work with is properly licensed, insured, and provides 3 local references. Feel free to check out our list of local contractors that we know and trust.

Scam Warning Signs

The following list represents the most common indicators that the person or company you are speaking with might be running a scam.

• Not properly licensed
• No insurance or under-insured
• No local office (beware of P.O. boxes and hotel addresses)
• Won't provide local references
• Demands up-front cash or deposit
• Shows up on convicted criminals list

Out-of-State Contractors

Many excellent storm restoration companies have multiple offices around the country, or travel to work in hard hit storm areas. Just because a contractor is from out of state, it is not necessarily a reason to worry. However, as with any contractor you hire, you'll want to do your homework and check the contractor out before signing a contingency agreement or contract to do any work on your property.

If you decide to hire a contractor that is based out of state, make sure they have a local office, or reciprocal relationship with a local contractor, who will perform warranty repairs, if your contractor should leave the state. It is important to remember your workmanship warranty is worthless, if your out-of-state contractor leaves the state and does not have a local representative to honor the warranty.

Storm Chaser Scam Warning Signs

Storm chasers are like ambulance chasers. They flock to areas of the country that have been recently hit by damaging storms and attempt to scam people that are in need of serious help

• A temporary office or P.O. box
• Out-of-state phone numbers
• Out-of-state license plates
• Staying in a hotel, or motel
• No local references
• Don't know your area

You can avoid scams by working with one of the highly rated and experienced storm restoration contractors listed on our website. If you have any questions or concerns, please stop in or give us a call!

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MAZE LUMBER

1100 Water Street

P.O. Box 449

Peru, IL 61354
Phone: 815-223-1742

Fax: 815-223-1752

Hours:

Monday-Friday: 7:30AM - 4:30PM

Saturday: 8:00AM - 12:00Noon

Sunday: Closed

What to Ask Your Deck Builder Before Hiring Them

When you are getting ready to hire a contractor to build your deck you should thoroughly research their building history, get at least three estimates, and always ask them questions. This will help make sure that you are being dealt with fairly and that you will hire a contractor that you will be comfortable with …

Source: livbuildingproducts.com

BUILDING A DECK IS A BIG INVESTMENT FOR YOUR HOME.

It will help make your home a more enjoyable place and will also help with resale if you’re thinking about putting it on the market someday.

THAT’S WHY IT’S SO IMPORTANT YOU GET THE JOB DONE RIGHT.

In previous blog posts, we've talked about how to build your own deck. But we think it’s also important for folks to reach out for professional help with their deck when they need it. A licensed contractor will know all of the rules to building a deck. We’re talking structural, safety, legal (and important) rules. Most people don’t have a building background, and that’s totally OK. Now, it’s time to understand how to hire the right builder.

We found this post from LivBuildingProducts.com that outlines a few questions you’ll want to ask a builder before hiring them. Do you have ideas to add to this list? Click on the link above to find out more.

For more information, check out our website!

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MAZE LUMBER

1100 Water Street

P.O. Box 449

Peru, IL 61354
Phone: 815-223-1742

Fax: 815-223-1752

Hours:

Monday-Friday: 7:30AM - 4:30PM

Saturday: 8:00AM - 12:00Noon

Sunday: Closed

Understanding Decking Terminology

Terminology Of Decks

When you start on a journey of planning, building, or updating a deck, there are a lot of terms you should know. Take a look at this graphic put together by Wood Magazine. If you’re a visual learner, it’s especially helpful. They’ve also defined all of the different terms. Armed with this information, you should feel confident moving forward with your wood deck construction.

A deck is essentially an outdoor floor supported by a frame, posts, and footings secured in the ground; assembled in stages; and built from the ground up. The following terms define all of the important components of a typical deck.

Beams or girders: Hefty framing members (usually 4x, 6x, or doubled or tripled 2x stock) attached horizontally to the posts to support the joists.

Bridging: Short pieces of lumber between joists that strengthen the framing. They are designed to prevent the joists from twisting.

Decking: 2x or 5/4 stock attached to the joists to form the deck floor.

Footings: Concrete columns below grade that support the posts and, thus, the deck. On sites where the soil freezes and thaws, concrete is poured in an above-grade form and a cylindrical hole. Ask your building department for footing depths in your area.

Joists: Horizontal framing members (usually 2x stock) fastened on top of the beam or flush with the ledger to support the decking. A header is fastened to the ends of the deck?s interior joists. Rim joists or end joists are the outermost joists perpendicular to the ledger.

Joist hangers: Metal fasteners that allow you to fasten the joists in place without notching the ends of the board. A joist hanger secures a joist to a ledger or rim joist.

Ledger: A board (usually 2x stock) attached to the house to support one side of the deck.

Piers: (not illustrated) Precast concrete pyramids made to set on in-ground footings. Where frost heave is not a factor, piers set directly on the ground to support posts.

Post anchors: Metal framing connectors that attach posts to piers or footings. They raise the base of the posts slightly above the top of the footing, protecting them from water damage.

Posts: Timbers (usually 4x or 6x) set vertically to support the deck framing. Posts are used on all but the shortest decks. The posts can be cut off below the deck surface, or they may rise above the surface to provide support for the railing. Posts may rest on top of concrete footings or they can be set plumb in the hole before the concrete is poured.

Rails: Horizontal components of railings that provide a safety barrier and handhold for stairs or along the sides of the deck.

Railing: The assembly made of rails, rail posts, cap rails, and balusters or spindles. The balusters, the smallest vertical components, are positioned to fill the space between the top and bottom rails and between rail posts. Maximum baluster spacing for child safety is 4".

Risers: Boards covering the vertical spaces between stairway treads. Although shown in the drawing, risers are often omitted on deck steps and other exterior steps.

Stringers: Long, diagonal framing parts (usually 2x12s) that support stair treads. The stair treads are attached to the stringers.

Treads: The horizontal, stepping surfaces of a stairway.

Now that you've learned what some of the terminology means, we hope it will help you feel a little more comfortable planning your deck project! Understanding these commonly used terms should give you a steady foundation to stand on.

Check out our website for more information on the products we carry.Or give us a call at (815) 223-1742!

Maze Lumber is dedicated to providing our customers with superior service.

Don't forget!!!

Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Check us out on Instagram!

MAZE LUMBER

1100 Water Street

P.O. Box 449

Peru, IL 61354
Phone: 815-223-1742

Fax: 815-223-1752

Hours:

Monday-Friday: 7:30AM - 4:30PM

Saturday: 8:00AM - 12:00Noon

Sunday: Closed

Decking 101: Stain vs. Paint vs. Seal

One of the many questions in life – should I stain or paint or seal my deck? All will protect your deck, thus saving you tons of cash. The cost of staining, sealing, or painting your deck is way (WAY) cheaper than replacing the whole thing. No matter what, test the color on a hidden board prior to tackling the entire project to make sure you’re happy with the color. Better to be safe than sorry. Also, be sure to read the stain, paint, sealer manufacturers instructions on application. Follow the rules, folks.

Which is better- Stain, Seal, or Paint? The answer is simple: it’s personal preference. Whether you stain, paint, or seal, it is extremely important that you protect it.

Stains Explained

Stains do a great job of highlighting the natural beauty of the wood grain. The right stain can be a stunning, simple, design addition to your exterior space. You’ll have to maintain your decking from time to time. The frequency of maintenance will depend on things like wear and tear, the color of the stain, the quality of the stain, and the quality of the prep work that went into staining the deck before. There’s solid and semi-transparent stains depending on how much you would like to see the wood grain.

If the proper prep work was done to a deck on the East Coast near the salty air, and if the deck doesn’t have any shade – with six people living in the house and using the area once a week – with a midgrade quality stain … you might expect to the deck would have to be re-stained every few years.

We’ll have more on prep work in another post soon.

Paints Explained

As a protective coating goes, paint is hard to beat. You won’t see discolorations or any imperfections until something happens to the paint. The required maintenance for a painted deck will be less frequent, but again it will depend on the location, Mother Nature, and how much use your deck gets. Be sure to look for exterior deck/patio paint.

Keep in mind, however, that paint can flake. So this might require more maintenance than a stain.

Sealers

You can get a clear sealant for your deck if you want the unique grains to shine through. However, sometimes it’s fun to mix it up. Most of the time, stains also contain a protective sealant. It’s a good idea, though, to re-seal your deck (or check that it needs to be re-sealed) once a year.

Water and Oil

Water-based stains can adhere to water or oil-based coatings already present on the wooden surface. Water-based stains can be cleaned up with water.

Oil-based stains will only adhere to wood previously stained with an oil-based product. Oil spills can be cleaned up with paint thinner.

When to Stain, Paint, or Seal: Sprinkle Test

The way you can check to see if your deck needs some help is the sprinkle test. Sprinkle some water on it. If it beads up, wait a few days and try again. If the water absorbs into the wood, it’s time to stain, pain, or seal.

For more information, check out our website!

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MAZE LUMBER

1100 Water Street

P.O. Box 449

Peru, IL 61354
Phone: 815-223-1742

Fax: 815-223-1752

Hours:

Monday-Friday: 7:30AM - 4:30PM

Saturday: 8:00AM - 12:00Noon

Sunday: Closed

Is It Time To Refinish Your Deck?

Is your deck looking worse for wear? It’s time to refinish it! Out with the sun-bleached gray and in with the new! When it comes to revitalizing your deck, there are many options, and Mother Nature is a formidable opponent.

The wood for decks is pressure-treated, and that’s a good thing; the bugs steer clear, it’s made to stand up to the elements, it's low maintenance and easier to maintain than you think.

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

A well-kept deck with new stain and sealer will endure the elements and look super fabulous compared to an unfinished deck.

Would you like a contrasting or blending deck stain? You can go either way with a gamut of colors that will beautify and protect. Here’s the catch. When you stain, you have to seal. The same sealer that protects tends to fade in the sunlight. And if you don’t keep that up, it’ll look faded and neglected.

The good news is that refinishing—outside of labor—will only run about $200 in materials. Power Washing is great for dirt, mildew and some layers of the older finishes. You could get an electric pressure washer however, cheaper ones are little more than an overpriced water pistol. Get a gas powered version that has some boom to it. They run around $300 +/- but will pay for themselves over time. Renting one or having a power washing service can run the same for a single visit.

Cleaning, stripping and sealing

Refinishing your deck is a three-step process. It involves stripping and scrubbing the deck with an effective cleaner followed by resealing all the exposed wood surfaces with a clear, semi transparent or solid-color sealer. Be sure to repair or replace any rotting pieces.

Once the deck has dried and cured, do a walk around and check for any nail or screw heads. Those can be murder on toes. Most of the time you can countersink the nails. However, deck screws are another story.

For deck screws, simply back them out with a cordless drill with a Phillips’ head bit. If the teeth won’t bite, try using a slam hammer. Replace any screws with 3″ galvanized (weatherproof) deck screws, using the existing screw holes.

We'll cover Staining vs Painting vs Sealing in our next blog. Be sure to check it out!

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MAZE LUMBER

1100 Water Street

P.O. Box 449

Peru, IL 61354
Phone: 815-223-1742

Fax: 815-223-1752

Hours:

Monday-Friday: 7:30AM - 4:30PM

Saturday: 8:00AM - 12:00Noon

Sunday: Closed

Understanding Construction Jargon

Whether you're discussing details with the contractor, or working with an inspector, the jargon used by those involved with the industry can be confusing and even frustrating. By defining construction terms like the ones below, we hope to alleviate the stress you might feel when discussing construction with industry professionals. We won't be able to define every term you might hear, but here are some commonly used terms that you might encounter in a variety of construction situations.

Flooring and Roofing Terms

• Joist: Parallel framing members installed horizontally to carry floor and ceiling loads.
• Floating Floor: A floor system that can be placed on top of an existing floor (and does not need to be nailed down.) Tiles or boards are glued together rather than directly to the sub floor or floor.
• Dormer Window: A window that rises vertically from a sloping roof.
• Hip: The angle formed by two intersecting, sloping roof planes that runs from the eaves to the ridge of a house.
• Parquet Flooring: Woodwork floors set in geometric forms for design purposes.
• Ponding: The pooling of water on a roof.
• Prefinished Floor: A finished flooring that requires installation only.
• Pickled Floors: The informal, casual look when you rub white paint into already stained or finished wood flooring.
• Soffit: The underside space between the end of the roof and the side of a home, often vented to provide circulation to the attic.
• Frieze: A carpet style where the yarn is tightly twisted to give it a nubby, rough appearance.
• Subfloor: Boards or plywood mounted over joists on which the finish floor is laid.
  Terrazzo: A multi-colored floor made from stone or marble chips embedded in cement.

Window Terms

• Jamb: The molding around a window frame. The “side jamb” is vertical while the “head jamb” is horizontal.
• Lite: A pane of glass within a window. Often used when talking about how many panes there are in a window (i.e. a 12-lite colonial window.)
• Louvered Window: A window with several glass, metal or wooden slats that open together like shutters, usually by pulling a lever or crank to adjust the angle. Also called a jalousie.
• Mullion: The vertical strip of wood that separates side-by-side windows.
• Oriel Window: Similar to a bay window, it projects out from the wall, but does not extend to the ground. Instead the bottom curves back into the wall.
• Sash: The parts of a window that holds the glass (the “doors” of a window.)

Carpentry Terms

• Galvanized: Any metal coated with zinc to protect it from rusting.
• Girder: A large beam of wood or steel which acts as the principle support for loads along its span.
• Header: A beam which is perpendicular to wall suds above doors, windows or other openings. It carries the weight of structural loads.
• Joint: Any place where two building materials come together and leave a gap or space.
• Miter: A 45-degree cut. Unlike a compound miter cut, the saw blade remains at 0 degrees.
• Pull Bar: The tool used to tighten tongue and groove joints during the installation process.
• Sapwood: The lighter color wood near the outside of the tree.
• Stud: A 2×4 or 2×6 vertical framing member used to assemble walls.
• Toenailing: Nailing at an angle to connect one framing piece to a second.

HVAC Terms

• Passive Cooling/Heating: A building structure designed to increase ventilation and retention of heating/cooling within its building components.
• Passive Solar Design: Using design methods to capitalize on heat and light from the sun, thereby reducing the need for electric systems.
• Pellets: Fuel that consist of 100% wood sawdust with no additives.
• Split System: An air conditioner or heat pump that has components in two different locations (typically one inside and one outside).
• Integrated Hot Water System: A system that provides water heating from a single heat source.

Miscellaneous Home Improvement Terms

• Integral Sink: A sink made out of the same material as the countertop to form a continuous surface.
• Paver Tile: Tile that is larger than six square inches.
• Pyrolave: Countertop material made from enameled lava rock.
• Retrofit: Upgrading a preexisting fixture by installing new parts.
• Sconce: A light fixture attached to a wall.
• Shim: A thin piece of wood used during installation to insure that countertops are level.
• Substrate: Any surface to which a paint, stain or sealant is applied.
• Tongue and Groove: A way of connecting materials, such as wood, in which the tongue of a board is placed into the groove of the board following it.
• Veneer: A thin piece of wood attached to particleboard to create the illusion of wood surfaces.
• Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs): Materials that evaporate from organic products and can cause acute and chronic illnesses.
• Wood Shakes: Rough, thick, uneven shingles, either hand split or sawn, that can be used as a siding material.
• Xeriscape: landscaping that is designed specifically for areas that are susceptible to drought, or for areas where water conservation is practiced.

Now that you've learned what some of the jargon means, we hope it will help you feel a little more comfortable the next time you're having a conversation with someone in the construction industry. Understanding these commonly used terms should give you a steady foundation to stand on.

Maze Lumber is dedicated to providing our customers with superior service.

Don't forget!!!

Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Check us out on Instagram!

MAZE LUMBER

1100 Water Street

P.O. Box 449

Peru, IL 61354
Phone: 815-223-1742

Fax: 815-223-1752

Hours:

Monday-Friday: 7:30AM - 4:30PM

Saturday: 8:00AM - 12:00Noon

Sunday: Closed

Prepare For the Extreme

A disaster supply kit is a collection of basic items your household may need in the event of an emergency. You should have a kit at home and also at your place of work. At work, try to include a pair of comfortable shoes in case you need to walk to a shelter area. It's best to assume that in the event of an emergency or natural disaster, roads will be inaccessible by vehicles, and public transportation will be shut down.

Try to assemble your kit well in advance of an emergency. You may have to evacuate at a moment's notice and take essentials with you. You will probably not have time to search for the supplies you need or shop for them.

You may need to survive on your own after an emergency. This means having your own food, water and other supplies in sufficient quantity to last for at least 72 hours. Local officials and relief workers will be on the scene after a disaster but they cannot reach everyone immediately. You could get help in hours or it might take days.

Additionally, basic services such as electricity, gas, water, sewage treatment and telephones may be cut off for days, even a week or longer. Your supplies kit should contain items to help you manage during these outages.

Emergency Supplies

Water, food and clean air are important things to have if an emergency happens. Each family or individual's kit should be customized to meet specific needs, such as medications and infant formula. It should also be customized to include important family documents.

Recommended Supplies To Include In A Basic Kit:

• Water, one gallon of water per person per day, for drinking and sanitation
• Food, at least a three-day supply of non-perishable food
• Battery-powered radio and a NOAA Weather Radio with tone alert and extra batteries for both
• Flashlight and extra batteries
• First Aid kit
• Whistle to signal for help
• Infant formula and diapers, if you have an infant
• Moist towelettes, garbage bags and plastic ties for personal sanitation
• Dust mask or cotton t-shirt, to help filter the air
• Plastic sheeting and duct tape to shelter-in-place
• Wrench or pliers to turn off utilities
• Can opener for food (if kit contains canned food)

Clothing and Bedding:

If you live in a cold weather climate, you must think about warmth. It is possible that the power will be out and you will not have heat. Rethink your clothing and bedding supplies to account for growing children and other family changes. One complete change of warm clothing and shoes per person, including:

• A jacket or coat
• Long pants
• A long sleeve shirt
• Sturdy shoes
• A hat and gloves
• A sleeping bag or warm blanket for each person

Below are some other items for your family to consider adding to its supply kit. Some of these items, especially those marked with a * can be dangerous, so please have an adult collect these supplies.

• Emergency reference materials such as a first aid book or a print out of the information on www.ready.gov
• Rain gear
• Mess kits, paper cups, plates and plastic utensils
• Cash or traveler's checks, change
• Paper towels
• Fire Extinguisher
• Tent
• Compass
• Matches in a waterproof container*
• Signal flare*
• Paper, pencil
• Personal hygiene items including feminine supplies
• Disinfectant*
• Household chlorine bleach*
• You can use bleach as a disinfectant (diluted nine parts water to one part bleach), or in an emergency you can also use it to treat water. Use 16 drops of regular household liquid bleach per gallon of water. Do not use scented, color safe or bleaches with added cleaners.
• Medicine dropper
• Important Family Documents such as copies of insurance policies, identification and bank account records in a waterproof, portable container

Make a Kit For Your Pet

Keep an Evac-Sack (or pillow case) and supplies handy for your pets. Make sure that everyone in the family knows where it is. This kit should be clearly labeled and easy to carry. Items to consider keeping in or near your pack include:

• Photocopies of medical records and a waterproof container with a two-week supply of any medicine your pet requires (Remember, food and medications need to be rotated out of your emergency kit — otherwise they may go bad or become useless)
• Pet first-aid kit and guide book (ask your vet what to include, or visit the ASPCA Store to buy one online)
• 3-7 days-worth of canned (pop-top) or dry food (be sure to rotate every two months)
• Disposable litter trays (aluminum roasting pans are perfect)
• Litter or paper toweling
• Liquid dish soap and disinfectant
• Disposable garbage bags for clean-up
• Pet feeding dishes
• Extra collar or harness as well as an extra leash
• Bottled water, at least 7 days' worth for each person and pet (store in a cool, dry place and replace every two months)
• A traveling bag, crate or sturdy carrier, ideally one for each pet
• Flashlight
• Blanket (for scooping up a fearful pet)
• Recent photos of your pets (in case you are separated and need to make "Lost" posters)
• Especially for cats: Pillowcase or Evac-Sack, toys, scoopable litter
• Especially for dogs: Extra leash, toys and chew toys, a week's worth of cage liner